SATURDAY Auxerre. I want to live in Auxerre. We left Yael and Robin back at La Bonne Etoile with Jerome. Yael flew home to Israel. Robin is taking some needed time off. We drove to Auxerre, parked the car and walked the twisting narrow 15th century roads, peering into windows, imagining what on earth it would be like to live in such charming surroundings, had lunch on a plaza, wandered throughout the walled city, dropped into antique shops, visited the abbey, and waited and worried about Kippy and Judy, who were 45 minutes late meeting us at the car (very uncharacteristic of them), while they we locked in a crypt (another story). We continued our trek to Vezeley. I want to live in Vezelay. We checked into a charming chateau at the base of a steep hill, whose winding road led up to the Abbey of Mary Magdelene. We arrived in time to sit in the abbey and listen to the heavenly songs of the nuns and monks. Really. I haven't heard such be...